Research and memory

For the last few weeks, with (unusually) lots of free time while I’m in vacation mode, I’ve been reading. Nothing consequential, and in fact I kind of wonder why it is that I’m reading some of these books. Notably a series of books whose author, titles, and main characters I’m definitely not going to mention. These books are all fiction and about a genetic genealogist and her work. I’m not sure what the author is playing at. In several books he uses research in the 1960 and 1970 U.S. census to identify families. The issue with this is that U.S. federal censuses have a 72-year privacy rule, and the 1960 census won’t be accessible until 2032, the 1970 census until 2042. There are also many inconsistencies. The genealogist is taking clients for 5 years in the first book, sounds like 1 or 3 years in the books that follow which build on or refer to information from the earlier book, and other inconsistencies about relationships and activities. The genealogist leaves client material in full view of anyone who comes into her house, so client information is lacking confidentiality. The author focuses in part on reviewing over and over details of the research, analyzing it and re-analyzing it. That is of course as genealogists something we all do repeatedly as new information comes in.

When I arrived in Scotland nearly two weeks ago, I had 3 things I wanted to do – attend a symposium and a conference, wander streets in Glasgow and Edinburgh, and do some family research. I have done all 3. It’s the latter I’m reflecting on my trip to the Mitchell Library, the largest library in Europe. It’s the green-domed building below as I approached it.

I thought I knew what I was looking for in terms of the research, and as in so many other projects, that wasn’t where I went. I thought I was trying to figure out the role of Juda Isak Landsmann at the Angl-American Fountain Pen Company at 92 Union Street in Glasgow, when he arrived in Scotland and why. Of course, the answers weren’t simple. I am grateful to Harvey Kaplan from the Scottish Jewish Archives Centre for helping me learn about Scottish records, recommending a trip to the library, and identifying some records for me. I had found records for Juda Isak from the United States Holocaust Museum a year or so before my trip and had his passport and identification materials, along with a lot of information about the Landsmann family and Juda Isak/s mother’s Winkler family. My research rarely takes me into Scottish records, and I didn’t realize I had materials that weren’t on my Ancestry tree. The tree had dates and some details but 16 years ago when I found Juda Isak’s death record, I didn’t add the record or where the information came from, only the date and where he died. I’ve been going trhough my tree for months in spare time to fill in blanks such as these, but with almost 18,000 people on the tree and other work, I haven’t gotten to it all yet.

I forgot I had a note from a comment Juda Isak’s sister Diana made sometime between 1986 when I was first in contact with her and the family, and her death in 1995, was that Juda Isak and his wife fought in the Spanish Civil War on the side of the loyalists, and went to Scotland after that. Her comment identified approximately when he came to Scotland but I also thought it meant Juda Isak and Bluma arrived after their marriage. Thank you Harvey, for locating their marriage record in Scotland in 1942. Juda’s death and marriage records listed his occupation as a commercial traveler. I also had forgotten a sort of throw away line in a letter he wrote to my grandparents in 1948 saying he had embarked on a new business venture. I remembered it as I was looking at directories beginning with 1938 at the Library.

I looked at the Post Office and Kelly Directories up until 1959, the year after Juda died. The 1949 Kelly Directory was the only one listing the Anglo-American Fountain Pen Co. Juda Isak’s address at the time of his death was 335 Victoria Road, and I only found him living at that address for a few years, starting in 1955. Prior to that, he doesn’t appear in any directory – perhaps he and his wife were living with other people.

At the time of their 1942 marriage, Juda Isak and Bluma listed their address at 1 Hamilton Park. Their witnesses were B. Spevack and M. Korn living at the same address. I didn’t find M. Korn at that address, but did find B.M. Spevack, and a listing of his occupation.

Bluma appears to have gone to the U.S. in 1949 or at least that’s the year she returned to Scotland. I’m waiting to receive her 1960 naturalization records – she appears in the Electoral registers in Glasgow starting in 1961.

Obviously I need to do more investigating and need to carefully review all my old correspondence with Diana through her granddaughter, my cousin Ella.

It was fitting given the rainy weather that on my walk back to the hotel from the Library, that I pass a pub called The Duke’s Umbrella.

There were plenty of vegetarian options so we stopped by. I have a cilantro allergy (really, an allergy not just a dislike). Cilantro is coriander. Although there are forms of coriander I’m fine with, I was not going to chance it on vacation. It turns out that almost everything on their menu uses a form or coriander, not just as a garnish. I had a small salad and lentil soup accompanied by St. Giles Ale, and followed by an almond orange tart. Perfect!

Tomorrow (Sunday) is our last day here. I’ve really gotten used to vacationing. It grows on you.

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Edinburgh take 2

We always planned to spend two days in Edinburgh and planned for it. This time we felt like old hands – getting train tickets on-line, retrieving the tickets at the machine at Queen Street Station, Glasgow, was old hand. For whatever reason I could not do this on the app on my phone so I was glad to have another option which worked smoothly. The only stress on this voyage was that the platform number of where the train was to Edinburgh was listed with less than 5 minutes before departure and the platform was (of course) the furthest from where we were waiting. Usually the platform is list 10 minutes or more before departure and the crowds waiting rushed to the gates to insert tickets, and run through the gates to get to the platform. We made it with seconds to spare.

Today was cloudy but not cold, and not raining, perfect for just wandering around. Our first stop was City Art Centre right near the Waverly Station to see the Sandra George photography exhibit – very moving and impressive.

The narrow alleys called “Close” were fascinating. A website about Edinburgh provided the information that there are over 250 of these, most in the old city off the Royal Mile.

We walked partway down Mary’s King Close which led to an interesting area about Mary Queen of Scots, the Black Plague, and 17th century streets. We opted not to take a tour (there are tours all over and we didn’t even talk about whether we wanted to follow someone with a flag or umbrella). There were some interesting murals

I was interested in going to a restaurant for tea and we chose one in Parliament Square at Colonnades in the Signet Library. It was difficult to find – no sign outside, and we stopped at an information booth to ask directions – our GPS kept saying it was 30 feet or 50 feet – the information booth confirmed what the GPS was telling us – it was almost the next doorway from where we were, just no sign. Eagerly we walked in and asked for a table for 2. The response? We’re closed today – come back tomorrow. Disappointment – we were not going back “tomorrow” but that did remind me of a silly old song. It tells of someone who wanted to go to a town called Morrow today and asked at the train station and was told he should have gone to Morrow yesterday. It really is a song – search for it and you’ll find the Kingston Trio and Muppets recorded it (not together).

The streets were crowded and although less so than two days earlier when (I think) King Charles was here, and still reminded me of Mont St. Michel.

After a really pleasant afternoon wandering around, we decided to go back to Glasgow and returned to the train station, managing to catch an express train half and hour earlier than we thought! By the time we got back to Glasgow, it was pouring! We decided to return to what has become our favorite Italian restaurant, Il Pavone, conveniently located in Princes Square.

Tomorrow I’m off to the Mitchell Library in search of Juda Isak Landsman and Bluma Surgal.

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Hills and Stones: Stirling

Neither the hills nor the extensive use of stone in streets and buildings surprised me. The stone buildings were interspersed with brick, probably from different eras, and even the ancient appearing stone walls and buildings were not all ancient. Surprisingly, we passed a number of turquoise blue doors – the sort of color more commonly found in the middle east, Greece, and New Mexico (there are probably more places but these are the places I’ve seen them most).

If you look carefully to the right of the door below you will see something that I don’t think is still found anywhere in the U.S. – a milk bottle. Door-to-door milk deliveries were common when I was growing up in Queens County, New York. At some point, the bottles were no longer just left by the door, but put in an insulated metal (I think) box outside the door.

The moat outside the castle walls no longer has water in it, but is a lovely grass-filled space with wild flowers, and birds. Much more benign than when marauding raiders were trying to storm the castle walls.

The Church of the Holy Rood, right next to the castle had a huge cemetery still in use. I know there must be some ancient graves there but I was too tired to explore more than just a fraction of the cemetery which stretches as far as the eye can see.

Some of the stones are a genealogists’ dream – several generations with relationships all noted like this one

A wonderful garden with lots of imagination was (almost) hidden between buildings

Stirling was lovely and the views dramatic. The history here is incomparable – well that’s not true – there are so many places in Scotland with dramatic views and lots of documented history and legends.

I am so sore at the end of each day’s trekking about. I clearly need to find more hills to walk up (and down) and a lighter way to carry a pack. Tomorrow back to Edinburgh for a second look.

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It’s the simple things

Our hotel, the Leonardo Royal Hotel in Glasgow is located in the best place – close to the Clyde River (across the street) with its great river walk, down the street from the Central Terminal and an easy walk to Queen Street Station. The train lines go all over Scotland, into England, and elsewhere. Because of the proximity to Central Terminal, not surprisingly, train sounds are common. Our new room is on the side of the hotel overlooking the Clyde and closer to the trains. I thought we just had to get used to the train sounds. When we got to the room it was I don’t know if they are here, but the hotel has literally two windows – the inner windows slide, the outer windows open out at an angle. Our outer window was open. I couldn’t slide the inner windows to get to the outer one, so I thought there was a lock I couldn’t see, and went to the front desk to inquire. Less than 5 minutes later, a helpful hotel staffer was in my room, sliding open the inner window and closing the outer one – result was silence – no more train sounds! Everyone here has been absolutely incredible. If (when) I come back to Scotland – this will be the place I stay. Apparently it’s part of a chain and I will look for it in other locations when I travel in the UK.

It’s so easy to get to Edinburgh and back from Queen Station – less than an hour on the express train, and the two cities are incredibly different.

I’ve read The Seton Chronicles by V.E.H. Masters and had a picture in my head of medieval buildings and streets in Edinburgh and other areas. My imagination was no match for the reality.

The only place I’ve been that competes with this is Mont St. Michel.

Everwhere I looked there was something magnificent.

The hills and steps all over are definitely giving my legs a workout. When I get home I have to somehow add more exercise to my routine – at the end of the day I was in serious pain.

My favorite sign was about the witchery!

In addition to the shop there was a restaurant on the other side of the street. I should have asked about the name in the shop because a quick glance didn’t provide a clue of the origin of the name. We’re supposed to go back to Edinburgh on Friday and if I remember, I’ll ask then.

Thursday we’re off to Stirling a place steeped in history (why am I surprised – everything in Scotland is steeped in history!)

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A Research Day

Today started off with so much promise. After climbing the hills yesterday to arrive at Garnethill Synagogue a day early for our tour. We were much more careful today, and arrived on time. The storyboards wonderfully described the Jewish communities all over Scotland and gave us a great vision of how diverse the community was, scattered in so many cities.

This synagogue is one of only 3 remaining in Glasgow where there had, not many decades ago, been 12. The bookshop had a wonderful selection of books about Scottish Jewish history and I purchased two and a tartan kippah. It was amazing to learn that the Jewish community had its own tartan, although it is no longer available.

After the tour Harvey Kaplan met with me to show me some of the resources available. Although I don’t currently have an active Scottish client project, I used a person in my own collateral family as the subject of research. Juda Isak Landsman went to Glasgow sometime before he sent a letter dated 1948 to my grandparents. The letter was on stationary from the Anglo-American Fountain Pen Company. Beyond that I knew very little. Juda was the brother of Diana Landsman Grass – her husband Samuel was my grandmother’s brother.

With Harvey’s help, I located Juda’s 1942 marriage in Glasgow to Bluma Surgal. His occupation in the marriage record may explain what he was doing in Scotland – it said he was a commercial traveller – was he a salesman for the pen company? We couldn’t find (yet) anything linking him to the pen company beyond the stationary. Long ago I had found Juda’s death record on the Scotlandspeople website. When I logged onto the site, I discovered that in 2010, I had found and saved his death record – I don’t have it in my files so I probably never downloaded it, and 16 years ago, did not make note of his occupation from it – the same occupation as was on his marriage record although I had made not on my tree of all the other pertinent information. Now I have his death record safely saved. The bound un-digitized copies of the Jewish newspaper from 1958, when Juda died, had his death notice. Only his wife and sister Diana are mentioned. Next step – visit the Mitchell Library in Glasgow and look at city directories to see if he or the Anglo-American Fountain Pen Company are mentioned. Since I’ll be in Edinburgh today and perhaps one more day this week, I hope to have time to see if I can find Juda on the 1939 population register.

After we returned to our hotel, I tried looking for Bluma’s family and although I found a record on JewishGen for a man with his name, I have no way of knowing (yet) whether the Chaim Hersh Surgal I found is the same as the person of that name who was Bluma’s father. I don’t yet know where she was from. She appears to have gone to New York in 1949 but I don’t yet know how long she was there before she returned to Scotland in late September.

I thought I found a record for Juda’s paternal grandfather, Leib Hersh Landsmann on JewishGen, but unless there’s an error in his death age, this can’t be the correct person. Abraham Hersh Landsman, Juda’s father, was born in 1868 according to identification papers. By my calculation, his father Leib Hersh must have been born in 1848 or earlier. I found a 1927 death record for a Leib Hersh Landsman who was 70 years old at the time of his death. That meant he was born about 10 years later than the Leib Hersh for whom I’m searching. Best case scenario – Abraham’s birth year was incorrect, or Leib Hersh’s age at death was incorrect. Either fact I will have difficulties establishing. That doesn’t mean I won’t keep looking for other information, of course.

Since we thought an early start to take the train up to Edinburgh was best, I figured we’d just have a restful early evening, but neither was the case. I was in the bathroom changing clothes when a huge crash happened behind me (I really should have taken a photo but I was kind of shaken). Part of the glass shower enclosure fell and shattered all over the floor – I am grateful that although I had glass shards on my clothes and skin, I could shake them off without getting cut. The hotel quickly (within 5 minutes) had someone up to clean the mess, and within another 5 minutes there was a call from the manager saying they were changing our room to an upgraded room and they would be up with a new key. As promised, quicker than I could have imagined, the manager was outside the door with offers to have someone move our stuff, but it was easier to do it ourselves.

As they say, all’s well that ends well.

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Confusion (obviously)

We started out the day dressed for the chilly weather, allowing an hour to walk the 1.1 miles from our hotel to the Garnethill Synagogue – allowing time to attempt to successfully conquer the hilly terrain with frequent picture taking stops (and catching our breath). The very good thing was that despite continually looking the wrong way when crossing streets, I avoided getting hit by a car.

The long walk, I thought was fascinating – new streets (for me), so new things to see. I looked forward to the trip back which would literally all be downhill. I also wondered if downhill on some of these streets was do-able. They looked better suited to skiing down or perhaps rolling down. We never got the chance.

We got to the front gate and followed the instructions of what to do to gain access and rang the bell. Nothing. Rang it again (and again and again) – nada. Then I sent an email and while waiting for a response, opened the confirmation of our tour. 30 June – very clear. I said “isn’t today 30 June” – of course the answer was “no, it’s 29 June!” Oh. I am clearly and without any mistake, on vacation. Me, the person who keeps calendars in her head and doesn’t miss deadlines or meetings.

So, we quickly put on our flexibility hats – after all, I’m on vacation and I can be as flexible as the mood takes (or requires). We called a ride and headed for the art museum and another scotty.

I have been told in no uncertain terms that tomorrow when we go back to Garnethill it will be by cab from the hotel. Sigh. Tomorrow is of course, another day.

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Disappointment (just a wee bit)

The above is the closest I will ever get to speaking with a beautiful and lyrical Scottish accent. But this seemed to be the best way to express how I felt. The Chocolate Hotel on Buchanan Street has such a lovely array of chocolates for sale and advertises chocolate drinks and other things. They have ice cream too. You all know how I insist that ice cream fixes everything and is the perfect meal, or snack, or dessert. In fact, there are many days when ice cream has substituted for every meal for a day when I was traveling. I was hungry. I needed lunch, and there right in front of me was the Chocolate Hotel, so we went in. Bummer. The ice cream was only vanilla. No chocolate ice cream in the Chocolate Hotel. Definitely disappointing. The piece of chocolate they put in the ice cream did not make up for the lack of a chocolate choice.

The Scottie outside cheered me up a bit. Chicago has cows, Glasgow has dogs (and cones but I didn’t take a photo of one of them and I don’t mean ice cream cones).

The changeable weather is, well changeable. Chilly, hot, windy, rainy. I’m not buying more clothes. What I have with me will have to suffice.

I’m really looking forward to my one day of research, tomorrow. A tour of the Garnethill Synagogue and Jewish Heritage Centre and hopefully finding some great information in the Jewish archives. I’m psyched. Later in the week, we’ll take the train to Edinburgh and Stirling.

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Rainy day in Glasgow

After several very hot days we are finally experiencing the type of weather I actually packed for – cloudy, rainy, chilly. I was beginning to think this was a repeat of last summer in Lithuania where the weather was so cold in August, winter gear would have been the only stuff needed. Rain jacket and umbrella are now perfect.

Today’s excursion was very successful. We started out at the first shop I identified to have football (soccer if you’re American) gear. Turns out that there are more sporting goods shops than anyone could probably count (I have no data to back me up and I’m probably wrong but right now it seems more of those shops than pubs & bars).

Each store I visited sent me somewhere else. I did restrain myself from buying a pair of shoes although the color drew me to them.

I did see a beautiful v-neck cashmere sweater in the same color calling my name, and which I will probably buy before we leave here in a week.

Each sporting goods shop had different football cards. I wish I was more educated about any of these, but I’m truly clueless – the only thing I can really say about football is that I love watching my grandson at practice.

The bottom line was that some chains are permitted to carry certain things and others are only permitted to be carried by independently owned shops. Four shops, 3 packs of trading cards. A successful day. I also managed to sneak in a stop at the wool weavers shop that had that beautiful sweater. There were several things calling to me all of which will be completely and totally impractical in Arizona, but some of which I will absolutely have to purchase anyway.

We walked into the Chocolate Hotel and I could probably move in there quite happily – I have no idea whether there is an actual hotel connected to this shop but the assortment of chocolates will definitely have to be examined in depth, and perhaps a tasting is called for too.

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Adventures in Scotland

I was more surprised to find this kangaroo parking sign than I was about the kangaroo signs in Austria – those I could understand – this I could not – does anyone have any insight into why kangaroos can’t be parked here from 8AM – 6PM besides that these are workday hours?

The last few days have been jam-packed with Strathclyde Institute of Genealogy and APG sessions. By the end of each day I could barely speak and I’m so grateful for everyone around me who could figure out the missing words! Needless to say, I was incapable of writing about the days. One of the frustrating challenges each day was that on campus, for whatever reason, although I had a wi-fi signal, I was only intermittently receiving emails and text messages – I could see that something came in but couldn’t open anything to actually read what was there. That meant that at the end of each conference/symposium day I was confronted with dozens of emails and text messages from family, colleagues, clients, and friends that really needed to be answered. If anyone who is reading this received an email from me which mad no sense, it’s because I was tired and had no business even attempting to send an email!

As if the intellectual exhaustion wasn’t sufficient, there were all the hills and stairs in Glasgow to contend with. It was amusing that the GPS said in a lot of its directions that the walking path was mostly flat. I’m not really sure how it defines either “mostly” or “flat.” There’s also a lot of construction and street closures which our GPS didn’t take into consideration, so everytime we walked around the closures, it reconfigured the route. If we had followed the new directions we probably never would have arrived at any destination.

The glimpses of really old buildings around each corner makes me gasp sometimes at their beauty.

OK, I know these are not as old as say, the pyramids, other buildings in Scotland, or the structures in Chaco Canyon, New Mexico.

The interiors of buildings had as many steps as there were outside to get in.

One of the joys of travel to conferences and meetings is to have face-to-face time with old friends

I love having Zoom meetings with colleagues pretty much on a daily basis, but meeting in person periodically is such a treat.

I know not everyone is thrilled with remote work but I consider it ideal. Without periodic in-person conference attendances I would be less thrilled. I’m looking forward to my next in-person event in Salt Lake City at FEEFHS in early August and then in mid-August in Buffalo, New York. The conference in Salt Lake City has the plus of being able to go to the new Ancestry headquarters in Draper, UT for the first time since the move a month ago.

Today’s adventure includes shopping for football gear for grandchildren. In Vienna I had to hunt for a shop here, there are stores all over which carry jerseys, scarves, socks, and more!

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Reflections – external and internal

Looking at life reflected in the ever-changing River Clyde – walking by and seeing the changes in the river and the sky, and even the wildlife (human and otherwise) brought us to Jonathan Livingston and friends in the middle of the day!

I kept an eye out for a quick place to shelter in case the birds flying above decided to grace us with some bombs (they were very polite and did not).

I know it all keeps coming back to the weather, but it’s amazing – on the river it’s windy and even chilly – 3 blocks away it’s still and muggy!

The architecture is thrilling to see – ancient (well ancient to me as an American) next to modern, and some ancient definitely repurposed.

When I was a child, my dad and I had a Friday night ritual. After dinner, he and I would drive from our house in Bayswater, Far Rockaway (not Bayswater, England) to the really big library in Belle Harbor. I don’t know if it really was big or if it’s grown in my memory during the ensuing years. This was a major treat since the library closest to our house (about a mile away) had burned in a fire and was closed for several years. When we got to the library he and I would search through Books in Print for my latest reading adventure – that generally meant either a time period or a place. Often it was England, Ireland, Scotland, or Wales. Thomas Costain was my introduction to the world of medieval historical fiction and that fed my imagination for so long: The Black Rose, Below the Salt were two of my favorites. Those led me to The Darkness and the Dawn and The Silver Chalice. I was totally hooked. My imagination was engaged. Maybe these books led to me love genealogy – tracing anyone’s family history, imagining what their lives were like, attempting to take myself out of my 20th and 21st century understanding of the world and put myself back in the days when our ancestors lived. Many years ago I purchased a medieval cookbook and tried some of the recipes – I decided I preferred the food we have today. I suppose, though, that if I had lived back in those times I would have found food I like to eat too.

No matter where my travels take me – Israel, Greece. France, England, Lithuania, Poland, Ukraine, Hungary, Scotland, and more, I am always in search of the old buildings and imagining what the surroundings would have looked like then.

But back to today – as I walked from chilly to muggy and hot, from bright sunshine into windy and cloudy, I had to shop. I didn’t buy clothes that would help my unsuitable packed clothes – in the store I forgot what I really needed, and instead, just looked at what was on the racks. I bought 2 items which, for the moment, I simply couldn’t live without rather than what I needed. Well, it’s inevitable, maybe the weather will change. Maybe my boots, raincoat, and umbrella really will come in handy. Tomorrow, is, as they say, another day.

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